The Azores are a remote group of nine volcanic islands in the North Atlantic Ocean, about 1,500 kilometres west of Lisbon and part of Portugal. Each island offers dramatic volcanic landscapes, crater lakes, lush forests, and rugged coastlines, making the archipelago a haven for nature-focused travellers seeking hiking trails, whale watching, geothermal hot springs, and a slower pace of life surrounded by striking natural beauty.
Historically, the Azores held strategic importance as a mid-Atlantic waypoint for transatlantic navigation, especially during the Age of Discovery.
AW Tour Leader, Lyn M. had some time to kill between our two recent, Camino Portuguese Way tours, so went to have a look at the Azores as a potential future tour location.
On every inch of the sea wall and marina walkways, it was a riot of colour. Painted squares of artwork stretched up and down the wharf proudly declaring their artist’s message. Some depicted ocean wildlife, some an attempt to sketch their yacht and there were those that displayed the national flag of their country of origin. More than a few poets had shared their sentiments on their journey. The yacht Agamu had, in 1988, romantically hosted the honeymoon of two of its crew. And Samara’s skipper shared a profound observation. “Old men sail….because aging is a lifestyle choice”.
Kneeling on the walkway, surrounded by a myriad of blue paint options along with dazzling gold, a recently arrived sailor was busily making his own mark. He and his crew were on the pre-rally leg of the famous Oyster World Rally, a circumnavigation of the world that starts and finishes in Antigua in the Caribbean. After hearing their tales of wandering the world’s oceans, I was ready to jump on boards and join them for the duration of their adventure.
This delightful welcome was just the start of my exploration of the Azores Archipelago. When mentioning my upcoming research trip to this out of the way location, the common response was “I think I’ve heard of it, but I don’t quite know where it is”. And with good reason. You would be hard pressed to locate this tiny collection of nine islands in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean on a world map. Arriving by air, it is impossible to not be in awe of the vivid green below, revealing just a fraction of the volcanic terrain rising from the depths and poking its head above the surrounding ocean.
Reaching the islands is currently only by air, from mainland Europe to Sao Miguel. The city of Ponta Delgada is the largest in the islands and the capital. It has a wealth of history in the old quarter, and is a good place to use as a base to explore. With only an hour’s drive to the farthest reaches of the island, no point of interest is very far away.
Tourism is well-developed and services are more than adequate, but the island is not overly reliant on it. Their traditional ways of dairy farming, fishing, agriculture, wine making and marine research and activities are much more important to its economy.
Known as the Green Island, Sao Miguel is a vista of lush hills, mountains and crater lakes, tea fields, botanical gardens, thundering waterfalls and thermal activity. Sete Cidadas is just one of the panoramas on show, with its twin lakes of different colours deep in the volcanic crater, and enchanting views from the rim above the magnificent slopes. In season, roadways and paths are stunningly lined with flowering hydrangeas, the colour only varying from island to island depending on the soil acidity, making every turn a postcard snap. At other times, azaleas and camellias adorn the hiking paths.
Tradition runs deep here. The national dish, Cozido das Furnas, is still prepared and then lowered into the steaming fumaroles of the volcanic soil to cook. Almost immediately after leaving the city’s outskirts, I was halted as a tractor moved hay from one paddock to another. In fact, tractors are a regular site on winding roads as they go about their farming activities. One weather beaten farmer with his horse and cart clopped past me down the lane and into the small village to delivery his milk churn at the central cooperative.
A short flight from Sao Miguel is the island of Pico, home to the highest peak in the Azores. The commanding, almost perfectly shaped conical peak offers jaw dropping views of the whole island for those who are prepared to clamber up its rocky paths.
Wine making takes pride of place on the lower slopes, witnessed by the extensive network of currais, or stone walls, constructed of volcanic rock only a stone’s throw from the ocean. This fascinating area is recognised as a UNESCO site. Created over 500 years ago, their purpose was to protect the vines from the extreme Atlantic winds, sea salt and to create a warmer microclimate for the vines. The famous Verdelho do Pico once supplied the cellars of the Russian Czars, and there is a strong focus on maintaining the traditions of this unique viticulture method. So if you are a wine lover, Pico is going to be high on your wish list.
Of the 90 species of whale worldwide, 28 of them frequent the Azorean waters. That’s a whopping one third of all species. Four of them are resident all year round, so whale watching tours that depart from various ports are a real drawcard. Combining the imposing backdrop of Mt Pico and a small zodiac boat for an encounter with our gentle giants of the deep would be an experience hard to beat.
Just across the channel and a short ferry ride away lies the alluring island of Faial and its port of Horta, a melting pot of cultures. With a history going back as far as 1375, it has for centuries been linked to marine navigation. Its very existence revolves largely around its relationship with the ocean. It was a favourite target for pirates, resulting in fortifications that once surrounded the entire port of Horta. Various ethnic groups have settled here, and through the centuries it has been a vital port for explorers and adventurers crossing the Atlantic. Today, the demographic that hasve its sights firmly set on this port are sailors, yachtsmen and tall ships. It’s not only a bucket list destination but a vital port to reprovision, make repairs and take some rest before onward travel.
When the first underwater communication cables were laid across the Atlantic, Horta was a crucial relay point. In early aviation history, the island acted as a halfway point between Europe and the United States. The island has a cosmopolitan feel in the most unexpected of locations, and its very remoteness is what has connected it to lands far from its own shores.
Heading away from the ocean, Faial’s hydrangeas are renowned for their incredible blue colour, due to the particularly acidic soil on the island, as well as the presence of aluminium. If the drive up to the Caldeira do Cabeco Gordo doesn’t take your breath away, the view into the 400m deep crater will. A rim walk around the entire crater allows you to see into the craters base and its endemic plants from every angle.
Nature put on a spectacular display some sixty years ago that change the face of the island dramatically with the eruption of an underwater volcano. At the far end, it increased the size of the island by 2.4 square kilometres, created new sea cliffs and cinder beaches, and is a startling contrast to the otherwise verdant green of the island.
If hiking is your passion, the island of Sao Jorge should not be missed. Its central mountains offer expansive views to the rugged coastline, but the fajas are a rare and unusual feature. Surprisingly, these coastal plateaus, formed by either landslides or lava flows, sometimes have villages wedged at their base. Some are not accessible by vehicle, and taking a leg burning hike along the traditional route from the highlands to the ocean that Azoreans have used for many years is a unique journey back in time.
The quaint village of Santo Cristo is just one of two fajas on the island where a lagoon has formed in the narrow strip of land between mountain and sea above the high tide line. In yet another display of ingenuity, the inhabitants utilise this to raise clams, as well as certain fish species.
There are five other islands in the group, all with various characteristics. Flores and Corvo are even more remotely located in the far west of the island chain and have a very off grid feel and stunning volcanic terrain. Flores in particular is a paradise of exquisite flowers, thundering waterfalls, whitewashed fishing villages and dramatic sea cliffs. Santa Maria is the oldest geologically and is therefore less dramatic. Time, wind and water have carved it into pretty rolling hills, secluded coves and a favourite holiday destination to relax. Graciosa, once a hive of activity for agriculture, is now a relatively sleepy place intent on striking a balance between preservation of her landscapes and heritage and sustainable development through its UNESCO Biosphere Reserve. Terceira is also focused on preservation, both of its extensive historical architecture and the last remaining laurisilva and juniper forests.
Experiencing everything the Azores has to offer is difficult to fit into just one trip. With its exposure to many cultures over the centuries, it is a fusion of amazing foods both Portuguese and from further afield. The cows dotting every paddock are a clear indication of the thriving dairy industry, with each island justifiably proud of its own signature cheese. Sausage and black pudding feature prominently, as well as a variety of sweet and corn breads. Include their world class wines and liqueurs on your dining table, and you have a meal fit for a king.
Despite being minuscule in terms of land size, this tiny collection of islands has had a significant impact historically and cultural for Portugal. On the world stage, it has shaped exploration, trade and migration with its vital port location. With such a fascinating history, it seems appropriate that sailors even today continue to pop by on their way around the globe. And for those of us who don’t own a yacht, we still get to take an aircraft to experience the charm and wonder that is the Azores.
Visit the Azores with Adventurous Women. Register your interest and we will be in touch when dates for this destination are announced.
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